New Purchases of Bordeaux
1982 - 2009
26/07/2024
I am pleased to offer our new purchases of Bordeaux, with many mature wines in OWC.
There's La Mission Haut Brion 1985, Lynch Bages 1989, Pichon Lalande 1989, as well as some greats from the Right Bank - including L'Evangile 1990 and Trotanoy 2001.
6 x Cos d'Estournel 1982
£300 per bt In Bond
96/100 William Kelley:'The 1982 Cos d'Estournel dominates Saint-Estèphe in this vintage (for my money, its leading competitor is Haut-Marbuzet, by the way). Remarkably youthful and saturated in appearance, it exhibits inviting aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, licorice and pencil shavings, followed by a full-bodied, fleshy, lusty, almost unctuous palate of notable concentration and depth. Its fleshy core of fruit is still framed by sweet, powdery tannins.'
24 x Haut Bailly 1985
£1,350 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
93+/100 John Gilman:'The decade of the 1980s was a remarkable stretch for Château Haut-Bailly and the 1985 is another outstanding wine from this stunning string of wines. The superb and very perfumed nose offers up an expressive blend of black cherries, red plums, menthol, a touch of citrus, cigar ash, a lovely base of gravelly soil tones, black truffles and a bit of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly suave on the attack, with a fine core of fruit, perfect focus and balance and a very long, complex and softly tannic finish. Like so many of the 1985s, this wine has put on weight over the last decade and really shows some depth and stuffing today! The ’85 Haut-Bailly is now at its apogee, but is so beautifully balanced that it should have no trouble keeping and drinking superbly well for several decades to come.'
3 x La Mission Haut Brion 1985
£295 per bt In Bond
95/100 John Gilman:'The 1985 vintage of La Mission is simply stellar, and though the wine is still on the youthful side, it has enormous potential. The bouquet on this excellent wine is still a tad primary, but offers up great purity and nascent complexity in its mix of cassis, sweet dark berries, a touch of menthol, dark soil tones, cigar smoke, a deft touch of new wood and a bit of upper register mintiness, that defines La Mission in 1985. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows stunning depth at the core, with beautiful balance and focus, modest tannins and great length and grip on the impeccable finish. This will be an extremely velvety and seductive vintage of La Mission at its apogee, but it is still a bit on the young side for primetime drinking and I would keep it in the cellar for several more years before starting to drink it in earnest. It is a great and very classic vintage for this great property.'
6 x Gazin 1989
£690 per case of 6 bt In Bond
90/100 Neal Martin:'The 1989 Château Gazin has long been a favorite of mine. It was a reminder of how great this estate's wines can be in a period when it was falling behind the pack. Here, the 1989 continued to show well, although I feel that it may just be on the downward slope. It still has a delightful, earthy, wild mushroom bouquet with warm terracotta tiles on a hot summer's day. The palate is medium-bodied and unashamedly rustic in style, a little frayed at the seams maybe, but still, at its core, there is delightful earthy red berry fruit, clove and bay leaf notes. The nose actually has more to offer than the palate these days, but it will continue to offer drinking pleasure over the next decade, even if recent vintages courtesy of Nicolas de Bailliencourt have been superior.'
6 x Leoville Las Cases 1989 magnums
£2,275 per case of 6 mags in OWC In Bond
94/100 Neal Martin:'This bottle of 1989 Leoville Las Cases is the second encountered within four months and is easily the best showing. It has a beautiful bouquet with a touch of menthol on the nose, leaning towards Pauillac with it vivacious cassis fruit. There's little of the ferrous note from the previous bottle. The palate is medium- bodied and the most youthful I have encountered. It's pure with supple black and blueberry fruit and fine tannins. It fans out wonderfully. As I have said, over a dozen bottles through the years, and this is a frustrating Las Cases to pin down. But when it's on, it's on.'
12 x Lynch Bages 1989
£4,375 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
99+/100 Robert Parker:'The 1989 has taken forever to shed its formidable tannins, but what a great vintage of Lynch Bages! I would rank it at the top of the pyramid although the 1990, 2000, and down the road, some of the more recent vintages such as 2005, 2009 and 2010 should come close to matching the 1989's extraordinary concentration and undeniable aging potential. Its dense purple color reveals a slight lightening at the edge and the stunning bouquet offers classic notes of creme de cassis, subtle smoke, oak and graphite. Powerful and rich with some tannins still to shed at age 22, it is still a young adolescent in terms of its evolution and will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring. It should prove to be a 50 year wine.'
12 x Pichon Lalande 1989
£2,475 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
95+/100 John Gilman:' Paired up with the 1990 at our vertical tasting, the more powerful and flamboyant side of the 1989 comes through rather dramatically. Along with the magical 1982, this is my favorite vintage of Pichon-Lalande from what must be its most successful overall decade in its long and illustrious history. The bouquet is pure, still sappily youthful and oh, so promising, soaring from the glass in a blend of sweet dark berries, a hint of plumminess, menthol, cigar smoke, coffee bean, gravelly soil tones, chocolate and toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and plush on the attack, with a great core of fruit, lovely mineral drive under the layers of fruit, ripe, buried tannins and outstanding focus and grip on the long, beautifully balanced and nascently complex finish. The last time I drank this wine it seemed like it was really starting to enter its plateau, but here at our vertical, paired alongside of the à point 1990, the relative youth of the 1989 is more apparent and I would be inclined to still give this great vintage of Pichon a few more years in the cellar to further unfurl. I clearly underestimated its potential longevity the last time I drank a bottle of this wine, as it has decades and decades of life still ahead of it!'
12 x Gruaud Larose 1990
£1,550 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
94/100 Robert Parker:'Meaty, smoky, sweet berry and black currant characteristics intertwined with roasted herb, charcoal, new saddle leather, and bloody steak juice-like notes are found in this lush, full-bodied, opulent wine. It is a fully mature 1990 that, given its depth and intensity, should continue to evolve for at least another 15 years.'
12 x L'Evangile 1990
£3,600 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
96/100 Robert Parker:
. 'A fabulous example of L'Evangile at its best. Dense ruby/purple with some amber at the edge, this wine has a gorgeous nose of black truffles intermixed with caramel, malt chocolate, sweet black raspberries, and blackberries. The wine is full-bodied with loads of glycerine giving it a very opulent, almost viscous feel on the palate. It still tastes youthful, but has always been accessible throughout its entire life. The wine does have plenty of tannin, but most of it is concealed by the wealth of fruit extract and the wine's viscocity. It is sensational L'Evangile that is just beginning to develop the secondary nuances of adolescence.'
12 x Pichon Baron 1990
£3,600 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
98/100 Neal Martin:'The 1990 Pichon-Longueville Baron has always been one of my benchmark wines, one that never ceases to perform. Now at 27 years of age, it is clearly at its peak, and what a wondrous thing it is. Now showing some bricking on the rim, the bouquet is utterly sublime, with red berries, cedar, touches of graphite, crushed rose petals and incense. You just want to become enveloped by these aromas. The palate is perfectly balanced, perhaps not as structured as it once showed since the tannins have mellowed, but what you get is a Pauillac relishing its secondary phase, which is almost Burgundy-like in terms of mouthfeel. Suffused with tension, it gains weight in the mouth toward the slightly tart finish. It is a Pichon Baron that only knows how to give sophisticated drinking pleasure. I once wrote that Pichon Baron is better than many 1990 First Growth, and that is a statement I have no reason to change.'
Calon Segur 1995 magnums
3x £600 per case of 3 mags In Bond
2x £200 per mag In Bond
'The 1995 Calon-Segur was the vintage that raised the profile of this estate and heralded the start of the late Mme Gasqueton's era. At 20 years of age, it shows no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. Far from it. It has an endearing bouquet that still seems youthful: brambly red fruit, asphalt and a light marine influence. Allowing the wine to open, there is a subtle winegum scent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, impressive depth and backbone, the second half having mellowed in recent years, rendering this approachable; hints of secondary truffle and smoke notes emerging with aeration. It has been several years since I last tasted this wine, but it is one that seems to become more and more impressive with age. Robert Parker rightly lauded this Calon-Ségur at the time of release. Twenty years on, it is fulfilling all its promise.'
24 x Lynch Bages 1995
£1,595 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
' The 1995 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined bouquet with intense blackberry, undergrowth and tobacco scents. Bold and lifted, this is a nose that wants to make an impression. The palate has more concentration and tannic backbone than others in this era. Dark berry fruit mixes with cola and black pepper, and tobacco comes through toward the finish with an austere, grippy finish. This would benefit from decanting for a couple of hours and is a bit of a bruiser, though not without charm. Tasted blind at the Lynch Bages vertical at the château.'
12 x Troplong Mondot 1995
£800 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
92/100 Robert Parker:' Totally shut down and enclosed, with an impressively saturated purple/black color and a promising but tightly strung nose of mineral, vanilla, espresso, black cherry and currant, this wine has beautiful purity, medium to full body, relatively high but sweet tannin, and a long 30-35 second finish. The wine is very firm but impressive as well as promising. Patience please!'
12 x Beychevelle 1996
£1,080 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
94/100 John Gilman:' In an age of global warming, the 1996 vintage may have produced the last great Beychevelle under thirteen percent alcohol, as this wine tips the scales at a very, very civilized 12.8 percent. This is a deep, pure and very classic vintage of Beychevelle and it will take plenty of time to come around. The stunning nose offers up a beautiful mélange of roasted cherries, dark berries, cigar smoke, fresh herbs, coffee, gravelly soil tones that show a bit of iron inflection and a bit of remaining cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and laser-like in its focus, with a rock solid core of pure fruit, a great expression of terroir, ripe, moderate tannins, sound acids and outstanding length and grip on the still quite youthful finish. The 1996 Beychevelle offers up superb potential, but it will need at least another decade in the cellar to start to stir.'
12 x Ducru Beaucaillou 1996
£960 per case of 6 bt In Bond
93/100 Neal Martin:' The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fresh acidity, quite sweet in the mouth and maybe like the 1995, just missing that complexity and terroir expression that I think has defined recent vintages from this estate. Maybe it is slightly compromised by some Merlot (25%) that was picked a but later, but still, there is a lot of pleasure to be found in this 1996. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.'
12 x Grand Puy Lacoste 1996
£630 per case of 6 bt In Bond
93/100 Neal Martin:' Tasted at The Ledbury at the Grand Puy Lacoste dinner. This bottle is much more unevolved and closed than others that I have tried. It has very good intensity on the nose with blackberry, iodine, cassis and a touch of violets that must have been picked down in Margaux. The palate has a real sappy texture matched with good acidity, but it is very backward and sultry towards the finish. Bold, dense and introspective.'
3 x Palmer 1996 magnums
£400 per mag In Bond
91/100 Neal Martin:' Tasted at the Château Palmer vertical in London, the 1996 Château Palmer is a wine that never quite fulfilled its potential. There is satisfactory fruit intensity on the nose, blackberry and truffle, a touch of vanilla and violet developing with time in the glass. The palate still feels a little backward, but there is good grip and freshness. This is a harmonious 1996 Margaux and yet it feels conservative and straight-laced on the tobacco-infused finish. It is quite a "serious" Palmer, yet it does not quite back it up in terms of complexity or, for want of a better word, "soul." Good...but you end up wanting more, especially having tasted the likes of 2000, 2005 and 2010 alongside.'
2 x La Mission Haut Brion 1999
£200 per bt In Bond
94/100 Neal Martin:' The 1999 La Mission Haut-Brion has long been one of the “dark horses” from the estate, sandwiched between the 1998 and 2000 and unfairly overlooked. This bottle reveals an intense bouquet that has far more chutzpah than I presupposed. Black fruit, charcoal, singed leather and just a subtle hint of game are all delivered with impressive definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and a marine influence is more noticeable than a decade ago when I last tasted it. While it has not quite lost its rather conservative and wellbehaved finish, it is a thoroughly enjoyable La Mission Haut-Brion that might represent better value than more feted vintages.'
3 x Palmer 2001 magnums
£1,450 per case of 3 mags in OWC In Bond
93/100 Neal Martin:' The 2001 Palmer is a vintage that I have tasted several times, though Thomas Duroux lamented that he has very few bottles left at the property. The lovely bouquet of red berry fruit, dark chocolate, star anise and light iodine aromas gently unfolds from the glass, displaying a little more complexity than the 2001 Château Margaux that I tasted the same day. The palate is medium-bodied with a granular opening and a little ferrous in style, secondary notes percolating through the carapace of primary fruit. Tea leaves, allspice and black pepper define what feels like quite a robust finish, lacking the elegance that Palmer exhibits nowadays. Still, this is an excellent 2001 that probably deserves another 2–3 years in the cellar.'
12 x Trotanoy 2001
£1,415 per case of 6 bt in OWC In Bond
95+/100 Neal Martin:'The 2001 Trotanoy is a vintage that I tasted regularly in its youth, but had not encountered for five years. It has a very appealing nose of loamy earth/mulchinfused tarry black fruit, touches of mint coming through with aeration. The medium-bodied palate delivers a mixture of red and black fruit, a liberal dash of cracked black pepper, and some clove and sea salt. Showing very good complexity, this is harmonious and focused, albeit just a little rustic toward the grippy finish. It’s less broody than in its youth, but I would still afford it 3–5 more years in bottle.'
12 x Smith Haut Lafitte 2003
£995 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
91/100 Robert Parker:'A beauty of cassis, plum, tobacco leaf and spice, this dark plum/purple-hued, medium to full-bodied 2003 reveals sweet, round, cassis flavors. It has reached full maturity, but shows no signs of decline, and should continue to hold at this plateau for another decade. Although the 2003 is not up to the perfect levels of the 2009 and 2010, it is unquestionably a noteworthy success in a vintage that did not favor Pessac-Leognan.'
6 x Palmer 2004
£1,025 per case of 6 bt in OWC In Bond
94/100 Robert Parker:'This stunning wine is one of the vintage’s great successes. Administrator Thomas Duroux has fashioned a modern day version of Palmer’s brilliant 1966. Displaying a rare combination of power and elegance, this dense purple-colored offering exhibits notes of blackberries, truffles, flowers, incense, and camphor. Long, classic, and medium to full-bodied with stunning texture and richness, this superb effort is a candidate for the finest Margaux of the vintage.'
3 x Haut Brion 2006
£900 per case of 3 bt in OWC In Bond
96/100 Neal Martin:'The 2006 Château Haut-Brion has a more ostentatious bouquet than the comparatively reserved La Mission: quite feisty blackberry, briary, kirsch and red plum scents, hints of leather and sage tucked just underneath. This is a bouquet determined to make an impression! The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, a gentle build to a concentrated, earthy, truffle-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. This seems to have the upper-hand over the La Mission and probably has a longer future. A thoroughbred from Jean-Philippe Delmas and his team.'
24 x Palmer 2007
£2,200 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
93/100 Neal Martin:'The Palmer 2007 has a very fine bouquet with macerated dark cherries, loganberry, cedar and a touch of graphite. Very good definition and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, some lovely ripe Merlot lending corpulence and lushness, though without compromising structure. The breeding is evident here and it represents one of the finest wines of the appellation this year. Bravo Thomas.'
2 x Haut Brion 2008 magnums
£630 per mag In Bond
96/100 Robert Parker:'This is profound! 2008 Haut-Brion: The extraordinary 2008 Haut-Brion is a candidate for -wine of the vintage.- Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, it reveals more evolution and complexity in its large-scaled perfume. The dense purple color is followed by a sweet nose of creosote, asphalt, blueberries, black currants and jammy raspberries, sweet tannins, a savory, fleshy mouthfeel and a stunning finish. This incredibly pure, noble wine was produced from one of the estate-s smallest crops (only 7,000 cases produced versus the usual 12,000 cases). It should drink well for three decades or more.'
12 x Pavie 2009
£2,700 per case of 12 bt in OWC In Bond
100/100 Robert Parker:' While the Perses may think the 2005 is the summit of winemaking at Pavie, this vintage certainly gives serious competition to both the 2005 and 2000. It is certainly the most opulent and luxuriously rich wine Pavie has ever made (and that is saying something). Pavie’s style of low yields, ripe fruit and serious extraction does produce, even in lighter vintages, a very concentrated and dense wine, but in the great years, the results are legendary. This wine has an inky purple color and a stunningly sweet, ripe nose of mulberries, blackberries, blackcurrants, licorice and incense. The oak still has some presence in the aromatics, as well as in the full-bodied, very concentrated, skyscraper-like mouthfeel and texture. This wine feels almost as if you could lose your palate in it, it is so dense and deep, yet at the same time it possesses silky tannins and rather remarkable purity, balance, and a good 60-second-plus finish. This is an amazing wine and probably will be drinkable in 5-10 years (although actually it could be drunk now because of the vintage’s voluptuous texture), and again, seems to have 50 or more years of longevity. It is clearly a modern Bordeaux legend.'
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