Very Rare & Mature Bottles - G. Roumier 1990, Hubert Lignier 1988, Michel Grisard 1991, Quinta do Noval Nacional 1963 & Chartreuse Verte
27/03/2025
I am pleased to offer a fascinating collection of mature wines.
There's Roumier Bonnes Mares 1990, a full case of Hubert Lignier's 1988 Clos de la Roche, Mugnier Musigny 2005, a 1978 Corton Charlemagne magnum, Marius Perron's from the '70's, Overnoy Poulsard 1993, Quinta do Noval's legendary 1963 vintage and some mature bottles of Chartreuse Verte.
Last but not least, there's some incredibly rare bottles - and magnums - from Michel Grisard.
Red Burgundy
2 x Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares 1990
£3,300 per bt Duty Paid
98/100 Neal Martin:'What a fabulous wine the 1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru! Youthful in colour, it has beguiling complexity on the nose, secondary aromas percolating through the carapace of red fruit: truffle, smoke and a touch of peppermint. The palate is quite dense and voluminous, as you would expect given the growing season, yet there is sensational precision and poise. The final third delivers incredible tension and mineralité, hints of iodine and spice lending more complexity and the aftertaste continues on and on and on. I wonder if this is à point? Then again, there is so much substance that you can easily envisage this offering another two decades of drinking pleasure. Stunning. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London with consistent notes.'
12 x Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fuees 1995
£2,400 per case of 12 bt in Original Case In Bond
92/100 John Gilman:'The 1995 les Fuées from Ghislaine Barthod is really a very pretty example of the vintage, which still has a trace of backend tannin, but is essentially resolved and drinking at its apogee at age twenty. The bouquet wafts from the nose in a blend of red and black cherries, black truffles, gamebird, a superb base of autumnal soil tones, lavender, a touch of espresso and a bit of charred wood in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very nicely balanced, with a good core, fine resolution and a long, complex and very modestly tannic finish. This has aged very gracefully and is now drinking very well indeed, though it easily has a couple more decades of life ahead of it.'
12 x Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1988
£9,600 per case of 12 bt in Original Case In Bond
96/100 Robert M. Parker Jr:'Lignier's 1988 Clos de la Roche, of which there are 300 cases for the world, is very good. It is not quite as black/ruby in color as the Charmes-Chambertin, but it is awesomely concentrated with a fabulous, highly scented perfume of black fruits, exotic spices, and toasty new oak. In the mouth, the layers of fruit are astounding, and the finish lasts for at least two minutes. Lignier has made some spectacular wines in 1988. None of the wines are fined or filtered, and as a result, they will throw a heavy sediment in 2-3 years time.'
1 x Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1993
£1,100 per bt Duty Paid
99/100 Robert M. Parker Jr:'Both of Lignier's grand crus, Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche, are superstars of the vintage. They are fabulous efforts in this variable year with awesome concentration levels, super-intense fruit and extract, as well as persuasive elegance and grace. Both wines reveal deep, saturated colors. An awesome example of this great vineyard, Lignier's Clos de la Roche possesses the remarkable intensity achieved by the Domaine Leroy in this vintage. It is remarkably perfumed, very full bodied, with enough structure and power to suggest it will drink well for 15+ years. Hubert Lignier's 1993s may turn out to resemble the long-lived, powerful 1969s from the Cote de Nuits. If you can find any of these wines, don't dare miss them. They unquestionably merit their prices!'
1 x Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1995
£750 per bt Duty Paid
97/100 Pierre Rovani:'This dark ruby-colored wine (originally rated 93-95 in Issue #111) displays enthralling scents of candied hazelnuts, stones, fresh herbs, blackberries, blueberries, plums, and wet gravel basking in the sun. It is just as extraordinary and complex on the palate as it is aromatically, offering an awesomely intense, broad, and expansive character. This full-bodied, mouth-coating, oily-textured, and juicy yet immensely rich wine is redolent with blackberry, cassis, cedar, stone, and briery flavors. Its stunningly long finish offers copious quantities of fruit complemented by supple tannins.'
1 x Jacques Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2005
£3,000 per bt Duty Paid
99/100 Allen Meadows:'Candor forces me to admit that mere words won't begin to do a wine like this justice so I will simply state that the Mugnier Musigny is a compelling candidate for wine of the vintage honors, which is saying something significant in such a gifted vintage like 2005. An incredibly complex and kaleidoscopic nose features a dazzling array of aromas, particularly violet and rose petal nuanced with anise, clove and cinnamon that merges seamlessly into sweet, pure and ultra refined full-bodied flavors that are harmonious and deep, with a driving tension that forces everything into striking relief yet the palate impression is pure velvet on the immensely long finish. Moreover, it delivers one of my favorite aspects of great burgundy, which is power without weight but in this case, the '05 Musigny is an enormously powerful wine but not especially weighty. In short, this is flat out brilliant and is a wine that you will definitely want in your cellar.'
5 x Louis Latour Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Argillieres 1979
£90 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
White Burgundy
1 x Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2015
£1,750 per bt In Bond
97/100 William Kelley:'This was my first encounter with Coche-Dury's 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, a wine that hails from one of the domaine's smallest parcels and which is often among the riper, more textural wines in the portfolio. Bursting from the glass with an expressive bouquet of citrus oil, Anjou pear, green apple, sesame oil, hazelnuts and a classy framing of new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep and multidimensional core, racy acids and a long, elegantly toasty finish. While age will bring more integration and complexity, I confess that even at this early stage, the wine is so compelling that I finished my glass with no difficulty.'
6 x Colin-Deleger Chevalier Montrachet 2010
£2,400 per case of 6 bt in Original Case In Bond
94/100 Allen Meadows:'A very mild trace of reduction sits atop otherwise pure and attractive aromas of acacia blossom, stone and lightly spiced pear. The rich but well-detailed flavors possess almost painful intensity while terminating in an explosive and bone dry finish that exudes a sense of classiness. There is a touch of wood on the mouth coating finish but I suspect that it will not be long before it is successfully integrated.'
2 x Francois Raveneau Chablis Blanchot 2015
£400 per bt In Bond
94/100 John Gilman:'The 2015 Blanchot from Domaine Raveneau is a beautiful wine, with all of the customary elegance of this cru already apparent aromatically and on the palate. The bouquet offers up a very pure and refined mélange of lemon, pear, beeswax, chalky minerality and a potpourri of floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and focused, with a lovely core, fine balance and a very long, vibrant and zesty finish. The acids here frame the wine nicely, but this is going to be hard to resist in its youth!'
6 x Francois Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2015
£250 per bt In Bond
94/100 Neal Martin:'The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has a tightly wound bouquet with a slight fumé note at first, then a trace of sea cave and a tang of the sea. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity. This has wonderful harmony, a dash of nutmeg and spice that emerges toward the finish and a very persistent aftertaste that will not go away (not that you want it to). This is an outstanding Montée de Tonnerre destined to give a lot of Chablis-lovers a lot of pleasure.'
2 x Francois Raveneau Chablis Valmur 2015
£450 per bt In Bond
95/100 John Gilman:'The Raveneau family’s 2015 Valmur is a ripe and very refined wine, with the synthesis of the vintage’s generous fruit and the cru’s fine mineral drive beautifully entwined. The nose wafts from the glass in a gregarious mix of apple, pear, paraffin, chalky minerality and just a whisper of vanilla in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and quite plush on the attack, with an excellent core of fruit, fine soil signature, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the focused finish. There is a lovely veneer of puppy fat here, but my gut instinct is that this wine will start to show a firmer structural chassis after bottling and probably will want a few years in the cellar before drinking.'
1 x Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 1978 magnum
£750 per mag Duty Paid
92/100 Allen Meadows:'Expressive and fully mature white burg aromas that still possess a lovely vibrancy and freshness to them followed by wonderfully intense flavors and a long, firm finish underpinned by obvious minerality and plenty of balancing acidity. Lovely stuff which should continue to hold. Multiple, and consistent, notes.'
12 x Maison Leroy Auxey Duresses Blanc 2019
£7,200 per case of 12 bt in Original Case In Bond
No tasting notes.
Champagne
1 x Aurelien Suenen Le Mont Aigu Blanc de Blancs 2014
£175 per bt In Bond
94+/100 William Kelley:'The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Chouilly Le Mont-Aigu is a touch less marked by its Stockinger barrel than its 2013 predecessor, and it's all the better for that, unwinding in the glass with notions of pear, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, almond paste and candied citrus peel. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's intense and saline, with a layered core of fruit and a long, mineral finish.'
1 x Aurelien Suenen Le Mont Aigu Blanc de Blancs 2015
£165 per bt In Bond
95/100 William Kelley:'The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Chouilly Le Mont-Aigu has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, bread dough and almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with a pillowy pinpoint mousse and chalky structuring extract, it's the result of yields that would be considered low even in the Côte d'Or (a mere 25 hectoliters per hectare), as the vines are infected with leaf roll virus.'
1 x Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2002
£180 per bt In Bond
97/100 Antonio Galloni:'Still a stunner, the 2002 Dom Ruinart is just as gorgeous as it has always been. Warm, toasty notes meld into apricots, succulent peaches, white owers and spices in a rich, expansive Champagne that captures the essence of the year. The 2002 is pure, full-throttle opulence, yet all the elements are very much in balance. A creamy, resonant nish rounds things out in style. Multiple tastings have shown that the 2002 is shutting down in bottle, so my suggestion is to be patient. What a gorgeous wine this is. This bottle was disgorged in March 2012.'
Jura
1 x Marius Perron Chateau Chalon 1979
£300 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Marius Perron Chateau Chalon 1983
£250 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
3 x Marius Perron Vin de Paille 1982 hf/bt
£100 per hf/bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Pierre Overnoy Arbois Pupillin Savagnin 1992
£200 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
6 x Pierre Overnoy Arbois Pupillin Poulsard 1993
£600 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Puffeney Arbois Poulsard Hommage a Pasteur 1993
£150 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
2 x Puffeney Arbois Trousseau 'Les Berangeres' 1993
£160 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
3 x Puffeney Arbois Poulsard 1995
£125 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Jean Macle Chateau Chalon 1999
£200 per bt In Bond
98/100 Luis Gutierrez:'1999 was one of the greatest recent vintages for Vin Jaune, and the 1999 Château Chalon from Domaine Macle clearly shows it. It started with a faint lactic note, not aromas marked by the veil of yeasts (some vintages develop more oxidative aromas and others seem to increase the curry spectrum of aromas). In fact, this 1999 seems to have gained in youth! The incredible Benjamin Button? There are complex aromas, though, and the nose kept evolving in the glass as the wine sat there. But it seems like there is potential for aging for half a century here.'
1 x Anne & J-F Ganevat Arbois Cotes du Jura Vin Jaune 2005
£130 per bt In Bond
94+/100 Luis Gutierrez:'I was lucky enough to taste three different vintages of the rare Vin Jaune, although it's far from being Ganevat's specialty. Starting with a half bottle of the 2005 Vin Jaune specially produced for the US market in the shape of a Clavelin, but with a standard content of 375-milliliters, which ironically enough, cannot be sold in Europe! I had already tasted the regular 2005 before, and this format seems to be just as good; I didn't even notice any more advanced aromas (I tasted from two different bottles and had drunk one a few weeks before this tasting). 2005 is confirming the high expectations; the wine has higher acidity than the 2006 (and 2007), and also more concentration and depth. I think I might have underestimated the 2005 a little when I first tasted it and I'm upgrading my score. However, it does not reach the elegance of the best jaunes from Château Chalon or l'Etoile.'
12 x Jean Macle Chateau Chalon 2011
£100 per bt In Bond
98-99/100 Luis Gutierrez:'About to be bottled when I tasted it, the 2011 Château Chalon has a smoky, flinty, whisky-like character that is subtle and elegant. 2011 was a cool year with good weather during the harvest, delivering healthy grapes and a good crop that produced quality and quantity. Macle compared it with 2008, a year with good acidity, but 2011 is probably a bit rounder. The wine comes through as balanced and mineral. A second barrel had a stronger yeast character, with more aromas of bread dough, a little peaty and a little more powerful on the palate. This should make a great bottle of Château Chalon; it's quite classic and has a long life ahead of it in bottle. There are 8,000 bottles of this, bottled in two different lots.'
Savoie
1 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse 1991
£750 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Tradition 1993
£500 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Tradition 2000
£375 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
2 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Prestige 2003
£450 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
2 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Tradition 2005 magnums
£900 per mag In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Tradition 2007
£375 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
2 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse Tradition 2009 magnums
£900 per mag In Bond
No tasting notes.
3 x Michel Grisard Prieure Saint Christophe Mondeuse 2014
£350 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
Rhone
2 x Champet Cote Rotie 1990 magnums
£250 per mag In Bond
No tasting notes.
3 x Guy de Barjac Cornas 1990
£150 per bt Duty Paid
No tasting notes.
1 x Grippat Hermitage 1995
£650 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
2 x Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillots 1995
£300 per bt Duty Paid
No tasting notes.
Alsace
1 x Trimbach Clos St Hune 1993
£220 per bt In Bond
91/100 John Gilman:'The 1993 Clos Ste. Hune is certainly a bit of a stylistic outlier from the vast majority of vintages of this great bottling, as the wine ended up going through malolactic fermentation. This always took a bit of its appeal away for me, as it is not a classic expression of this great terroir, but the wine has continued to age nicely and is drinking quite well today in its rather unfamiliar guise. The nose offers up a creamy impression in its mélange of grapefruit, tangerine, white soil tones, spring flowers and a nice touch of botanicals in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite round on the attack (from the malo), with a fine core of fruit, discreetly snappy acids and lovely length and grip on the fairly complex finish. This does not have the same precision and detail as a normal vintage of Clos Ste. Hune, without the malolactic fermentation elements, but it is a good, full wine that is drinking very nicely.'
Loire
2 x Richard Leroy Anjou Les Rouliers 2014
£220 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
4 x Richard Leroy Anjou Les Rouliers 2015
£220 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Richard Leroy Anjou Les Rouliers 2017
£220 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Richard Leroy Anjou Les Noels de Montbenault 2018
£240 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Richard Leroy Anjou Les Noels de Montbenault 2019
£250 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
Languedoc Roussillon
6 x Grange des Peres 2005 magnums
£2,100 per case of 6 mags Duty Paid
95/100 David Schildknecht:'The 2005 Grange des Peres red leads with the raw red meat, plum paste, chocolate, and saline, sea spray-like elements of Mourvedre and Syrah. The palate impression here is enormously rich and sweetly-ripe in its expression of plum preserve, cassis, and chocolate, yet underlain by such a wealth of savory elements that it is impossible to address more closely without resorting to nakedly carnal adjectives and to babbling about “minerality.” Impressions of black tea, coconut, and tobacco add further complexity. This exhibits a polished, plush texture and an energetic vivacity rare among Languedoc wines of its vintage, and should be worth holding for a decade or more.'
Italy
2 x Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1997
£275 per bt In Bond
94/100 Robert M. Parker Jr:'I underestimated this wine from barrel, but now that the great old man of the village of Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, has gotten it in bottle, it is an impressive, old style, heavyweight effort that will age for three decades. A dark plum/garnet color is accompanied by a striking bouquet of cinnamon, balsam wood, roses, tar, minerals, and cherry liqueur. There is good acidity, a broad, full-bodied, super-concentrated palate, and tell-tale truffle, leather, and dried herb notes. Powerful and long, this well-delineated, gorgeously pure, structured Barolo is a classic from the old school of Piedmontese winemaking.'
1 x Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1998
£250 per bt In Bond
93/100 John Gilman:'The 1998 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo is a superb example of the vintage that is still a few years of cellaring, but will deliver lovely drinking for at least few decades once it reaches its apogee. The bouquet is deep, very complex and classy, as it offers up scents of black cherries, game, camphor, fresh herb tones, incipient sous bois, black tea and woodsmoke in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and youthfully complex, with fine mid-palate depth, still a fair bit of ripe, well-integrated tannin, and lovely length and grip on the tangy, tarry and classic finish.'
1 x Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2000 magnum
£550 per mag In Bond
93/100 John Gilman:'The 2000 vintage of Cascina Francia from Robert Conterno is a superb bottle in the making, with classic depth and structure to carry it long into the future. The superb bouquet offers up a very pure and compelling mélange of red and black cherries, orange zest, camphor, fine minerality, fresh herbs, game, tar and a faint framing of cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, powerful and quite closed at age eight, with tremendous mid-palate depth, firm tannins, great acidity and focus and a very, very long, chewy and primary finish that closes with superb grip. This is a fantastic bottle of Barolo in the making, but it will need a bit of extended cellaring before it apogees.'
2 x Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate-Le Coste 1991
£300 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate-Le Coste 1994
£240 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
1 x Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate-Le Coste 1997 magnum
£600 per mag In Bond
95/100 Antonio Galloni:'The 1997 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste, from magnum, is magnicent. A thrill a minute, the 1997 is ring on all cylinders. What a pleasure it is to share this superb old-school Barolo.'
1 x Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 2010
£300 per bt In Bond
97/100 Neal Martin:'The 2010 Barolo Tre Tine from Giuseppe Rinaldi is stunning whatever way you look at it. This is everything you could wish for in a Barolo. It offers a cornucopia of aromas: an alluring mixture of red and black fruit, cedar, liquorice and a very subtle medicinal scent, all delivered with ethereal delineation. The palate is perfectly balanced, the tannins having melted a touch to render it perfectly drinkable, even if it constantly reminds you that it will continue to improve with bottle age. It is a long-term Barolo that is destined to give immense pleasure.'
3 x Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 2016
£275 per bt In Bond
97+/100 Monica Larner:'"This is the kind of vintage you dream of," says Carlotta Rinaldi, as she pours her precious Giuseppe Rinaldi 2016 Barolo Tre Tine at the winery. The wine represents a watershed moment for Carlotta, as she remembers walking through the vineyards with her father (who passed away in 2018 at 69 years old) to taste the fruit before harvest. She thought it was time to start picking (on the 28th or 29th of September), and her father readily agreed, deferring to her expertise. This is a classic Rinaldi Barolo, a tribute to a father and his two daughters, with so much balance and fruit equilibrium. Vineyard management was a breeze in 2016, and the grapes meticulously developed nuanced complexity, tannic firmness and freshness to carry the wine over the long haul. Easy punch-downs were measured twice a day and pump-overs were hardly necessary before the cap became soft and supple about 25 days later (the Ravera in this blend of fruit, which also sees Cannubi San Lorenzo and Le Coste, can sometimes go up to 30 days, but this is rare). The wine shows sharp and linear fruit tones that add bright energy to the wine's silky, mid-weight texture. This is one for the cellar, as these beautiful results should only get better with time.'
Portugal
1 x Quinta do Noval Nacional 1963
£2,750 per bt In Bond
100/100 John Gilman:'I had never tasted the legendary 1963 Nacional previously, and this stunningly pure and still almost youthful wine was every bit as profound as its reputation suggests. The glorious nose erupts from the glass in a sappy mélange of red plums, cherries, heather, coffee, cigar smoke, clover honey, a brilliant base of soil, orange zest and incipient notes of celery seed and other savory delights. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still rock solid at the core, with glorious transparency, melting tannins, laser-like focus and brilliant soil drive on the very, very long and tangy finish. Like several other of the very best 1963 Ports, the ’63 Nacional is still a fairly young wine and will continue to dazzle for another fifty or sixty years. It was an absolute privilege to taste this legendary wine!'
Spirits
1 x Chartreuse Verte (Period 1975-1982)
£600 per bt Duty Paid
No tasting notes.
1 x Chartreuse Verte (Period 1975-1982)
£600 per bt Duty Paid
No tasting notes.
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